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Messages - celem

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Not really, which is why it is best to purchase brands that are supported. The best supported cameras are by FOSCAM, followed by WANSVIEW and EasyN. I own all three of these brands and can attest to acceptable technical support (acceptable by Chinese e-mail support standards - meaning NOT like Dell or HP, but adequate for firmware updates, etc.)

I have never put my hands on a WANSCAM camera and based by all of the horror stories posted on this forum, I never want to get near one.

Even name brands are faked. FOSCAM cameras have a history of being faked, complete with all of the correct FOSCAM markings, BUT they will brick if flashed with a FOSCAM update. So, you have to be carful about who you buy from.

Your camera has some interesting features and pretty high resolution, but most of the internal parts of Chinese cameras are usually not marked with identifying marks of the manufacturer. This is so that they can sell it to wholesalers that will stick their own name on it. Consequentially, you are unlikely to determine "who" actually made your camera. If it didn't come with technical support contacts, then you are unlikely to obtain any firmware updates.

Caveat emptor

Yes, but if is a clone from the other brand, maybe it is working?

Each of these cameras, even when they look physically very similar, usually have different components within. Several of them are even made in the same factory (WansView) but under different contracts specifying different components. The sensor used is often different. The result is, as I said before, loading firmware from one brand into another brand almost always (1) bricks the camera; (2) boots but important functionality is missing.

I said "almost always" but I am not personally aware of a single successful case of loading loading firmware from one brand into another brand that resulted in usable functionality and I have been participating in this forum for a very long time.

Have you any idea if is possible to use other firmware like Foscam?

Loading firmware from one brand into another brand almost always (1) bricks the camera; (2) boots but important functionality is missing.

I like that micro-SD slot! If it boots from the SD this camera was be easier to test firmware changes.

uCLinux / Yocto
« on: August 31, 2012, 01:17:46 pm »
Has anyone looked at the Yocto Project for building a system for the Foscam-ish cameras? They claim "the Yocto Project is an open source collaboration project providing templates, tools and methods to help developers create embedded Linux-based systems, regardless of the hardware architecture."

Hacking & Modding / Re: Disable FOSCAM IR LED Illuminators
« on: August 30, 2012, 06:14:51 pm »
FYI - the final outcome of this thread is documented in a post on my blog. I ended up designing a new PCB to replace the existing LED PCB. I have placed the plans into the public domain. I also have some leftover PCBs available. See:

Skyking’s solution was to cover the IR-LEDs with black electrician’s tape. This is a perfectly reasonable solution but, to me, a more elegant solution would be to replace the IR-LED PCB with a new one that lacked IR LEDs but retained circuitry to control the  IR-CUT solenoid unit. Another excuse for me to design and build some printed circuit boards!

The md - memory display looks like it would dump. You would have to modify the code used by Firmware Recovery - method #2

Firmware / Re: CoolCam - how to change settings / firmware etc..
« on: August 28, 2012, 10:31:54 am »
Research: set_users.cgi
description set user parameter

permission administrator syntax

General Discussion / Re: Recommendation needed
« on: August 19, 2012, 01:29:44 pm »
The built-in IR lights are easily disabled. If you have a model without an IR-CUT solenoid then you just unplug power to the LED board. If you have an IR-CUT solenoid and don't care about keeping true daytime colors, then same cure - just unplug power to the LED board. If you have an IR-CUT solenoid and want to keep true daytime colors, then one solution is to simply block the LED's light, such as with electrician's tape. I built a replacement LED PCB for the FOSCAM FI8904W that omits the LEDs but retains the IR-CUT circuit so that the IR-CUT solenoid still works.

Why not a solar charger ( or, a lead-acid battery and a separate IR LED light ( that you put outside of the glass?

General Discussion / Re: IR-CUT Solenoid
« on: August 16, 2012, 11:31:51 am »
I noticed a IR-CUT lens for sale on eBay with similar specifications for the daughter-board. The connection diagram was quite interesting, showing a hookup very similar to a FOSCAM camera. See the attached photo.

Start voltage: 1.8V±10%
Applied voltage: 3.0V±10%
Driver pulse width: 50ms
Trigger current: 100mA or less
Working current: 200mA or less

General Discussion / Re: Need help with Foscam 8905 Wiring
« on: August 10, 2012, 02:22:54 pm »
Good to hear about your success.

General Discussion / Re: Need help with Foscam 8905 Wiring
« on: August 09, 2012, 10:08:35 pm »
your camera appears to have been made in a transitional period where the IR-CUT connections were hand soldered directly to LED board components instead of with a connector. I would hope that the FI8905 has, by now, transitioned to a new connector equipped LED PCB.

If I were to hazard a guess, I would suspect that the white wire was soldered to R26 on the side next to the red wire. This appears to be fed by the collector of Q2 which appears to have its base controlled by the photoresistor. Check this by using a volt-ohmmeter to measure the collector of Q2 relative to +5V. The collector is the single pin on the side opposite the 2-pin side. Cover and uncover the photoresistor with your finger while measuring. The the collector of Q2 should go to Ground when the photoresistor is covered with your finger. If true, repeat this test while measuring at R26 on the side next to the red wire. Your should also see R26 go to Ground.

If you don't have a volt-ohmmeter or feel uncomfortable with what I have said, then you can either take a chance on damaging the camera and connect the wire anyway or leave it off and your IR-CUT solenoid will not work, be stuck in one position and it will always or never block the IR light. As-is, the camera will either work in the daytime yielding good colors but be blind at night, or it will be stuck with the IR filter out, which will make it like the older, no IR-CUT cameras that worked day or night but with funky daytime colors.

General Discussion / Re: Foscam 8905 Wiring
« on: August 09, 2012, 06:40:34 pm »
I have designed a replacement board for the FI8904W's LED board that eliminates the LEDs but retains the logic that operates the IR-CUT solenoid, for true daylight color. Looking at your photo the LED board isn't exactly the same as that of the FI8904W but they are similar. Anyway, on the FI8904W there are two connectors. The two wire connector with two black wires that feed +5V and GND to the LED board. There is also a 3-wire connector with a black, red and white wire that feeds power (red and black) to the IR-CUT board (the little black PCB on the right side of your photo) as well as a white wire that controls the IR-CUT solenoid (GND=operate solenoid). Your white wire comes from the IR-CUT board and is probably the control wire that would go to the 3-pin connector EXCEPT that I see no 3-pin connector in your photo. Also, the 2-pin connector looks twisted as if it has seen some abuse. See my attached photo for the FI8904W LED board's connectors.

By the way, the reason that I designed a new FI8904W's LED board that eliminates the LEDs but retains the logic that operates the IR-CUT solenoid is for use with an external IR floodlight. I discovered that having the LEDs on the camera front makes the motion detection feature rather useless. While humans cannot see the LED's IR light, it is bright to insects and attracts moths to the light, triggering almost continuous motion detection on the moths which, up close, are huge to the camera. If you want to use these cameras outside with motion detection enabled, the LEDs have to be turned off and instead use an external, physically separated 850nm IR floodlight.

General Discussion / Re: DBPOWER VA035K Outdoor Wireless IP Camera
« on: July 30, 2012, 06:06:26 pm »
Your device uses 5V TTL logic but your chip is 3.3V. You need a diode to isolate the 5V. Hopefully no damage has already been done to the 3.3V Rx circuit. See the attachment for an example.

General Discussion / Re: DBPOWER VA035K Outdoor Wireless IP Camera
« on: July 30, 2012, 05:14:59 pm »
If you send a continuous character stream while watching the voltmeter. The voltage should drop below 3.3V, possibly as low as 1.5V, depending upon the character used. A CR should suffice. If you see no voltage change, at all, then you are not transmitting.

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