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Author Topic: Anran HD PTZ Camera bricked  (Read 2019 times)

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December 02, 2016, 09:04:23 am
Hello everyone, several months ago, I got myself a camera (shown in the images below), installed it and everything worked beautifully. Long story short, the nerd in me noticed that I may be able to use an alternate firmware for the camera. I downloaded it, and using the built in web interface I attempted to flash the firmware. Well, lo and behold, I now have me a bricked camera.  I have done extensive research on what to do next to try and get my camera back to life, without asking for help to no avail. I purchased a USB to TTL interface, got the wires mixed up by plugging the RX into the 12V by accident, and fried it lol.  I got another one, and now I'm stuck with no progress since.  I have been messing with this thing for weeks, and again, no progress, so now I'm asking for help and hopefully somebody with more brainpower than me, can shed some light to get this thing back up and running.

Below you will find many pictures. Second, you will also find a few links to other identical cameras, with  different branding below.  This one is branded as an Anran, although I have found identical cameras branded as Wanscam & EasyN.. as well as a couple other ones over the past several months. 

When I power this thing up, it goes thru the self test and successfully goes thru the pan and tilt motions, as well, the IR lights light up when I put my finger over the sensor, the blue LED light on the Wireless NIC flashes rapidly as well.  Although, it does not attempt to grab an IP, it is not even visible on my router weather I keep a network cable connected or not. Also, the CMS software does not see the camera at all... Nor, does any other ONVIF software. Other than going thru the self test motions, the camera is effectively dead.

As you can see in the pictures, I currently have the TTL interface hooked up to the plug seen in the pictures which the pins are labeled as 12v,G,TX, RX.  The plug beside it is labeled as CAM. I'm unsure if i want to even try the CAM plug as I don't want to fry the interface again.  I have tried many many different programs to attempt a back door approach of flashing, to get it up and running again.. once the camera has finished its self test, the computer screen just displays a bit of garbage as seen in the pictures as well... and that is as far as it goes. I have tried the standard ESC key while booting, as well as CTRL-C, to get it to enter the bootloader, and nothing seems to work..

Is anybody here familiar with this camera, and maybe shed some light into this for me? Any help would be fantastic.  Thanks in advance.

EDIT: My apologies for the images being posted as links..My images are very big in size, and not allowed to upload more than 4.  You will have to click each link to see the pictures.


Identical camera #1 http://www.banggood.com/Wanscam-HW0038-1_0-Mega-px-720P-HD-IR-Cut-WiFi-CCTV-IP-Security-Camera-p-938996.html?rmmds=search

Identical Camera #2 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EasyN-H3-V10R-HD-Megapixel-720P-CCTV-Home-Security-Outdoor-waterproof-ip-network-camera-plug-and/32738647320.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.199.pej4cW&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10078_10079_426_10073_10102_10096_10052_10050_425_10051,searchweb201603_6&btsid=8a3507b8-b254-4afa-8e7e-8af48a5e97ac


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPcW9HRnF2dFdxaEE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPSGJGb1NBWnZ6VWc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPV0RhektTRl9wclU
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPME02aGx6WWFFOEU
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPWnNwa0tKNFg4V2s
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPNDdXbTM1TmxHbDg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPRG9PTzhjZHE5Z0U
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2iM8utN9IAPSVZCTmstNEV0SEE


« Last Edit: December 02, 2016, 09:23:06 am by grashoper »

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December 02, 2016, 10:35:28 pm
It looks like the serial port is trying to send something, but maybe the baud rate is off.  Are you sure you have the correct parameters?  Also, make sure there is no flow control.

Sorry if I'm being presumptive about your knowledge level on these things.

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December 04, 2016, 06:31:16 am
It looks like the serial port is trying to send something, but maybe the baud rate is off.  Are you sure you have the correct parameters?  Also, make sure there is no flow control.

Sorry if I'm being presumptive about your knowledge level on these things.

I agree completely..As soon as the self test is complete, that is when that short burst of information comes through. No, I am not sure I have the parameters set correctly. I 'think' I tried all available baud rates.  Although, I was thinking, as I was trying various parameters I may have lost track of 'this and that' and perhaps I missed some variables, because that is certainly what it looks like doesn't it? ; all my research I found with most cameras 115200 seems to be a standard??  Perhaps not?  I tried all kinds of different things.. and yes, another 'standard' seems to be with flow control 'off' although I tried both..  Thank you for your input. Also, don't ever worry about testing my knowledge/intelegance.  Although back in th day when these kinds of communications was the norm, my knowledge in trying to talk to a camera VIA these old school methods is difficult for my thought process to go back in time that far  lol It has been a very long time since I tinkered around with these types of protocols.. I'm going to fire it back up here and go thru all the baud rates once again to be sure. Have you had any experience with these things requiring a rate <115200?
« Last Edit: December 04, 2016, 06:36:00 am by grashoper »

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December 04, 2016, 12:49:35 pm
I've only messed with three different brands.  They were all 115200 N81.  I also found that one one (with un-labled pads) that when I had some pins wrong, I would get garbage on the terminal.  The way I figure it out is to put the GND pin to a known ground on the board (like where a screw goes through and there's a bare spot on the ground plane.  Then just look for the TX line by trying them all between power cycles until you see legible characters.  Once you have TX, finding RX is pretty easy.  You may want to test the pads with a voltmeter first just to be sure it is a serial connection.  It could be for something else and have enough voltage to fry your serial TTL chip.

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January 03, 2017, 03:33:34 pm
I never had an ounce of luck with this thing. I spent so many hours tinkering with this thing it's unreal!  lol The garbage characters on the screen is all i was ever able to obtain on the screen. I put it in the bottom drawer for now, until I come across someone with more information.